Why you need to visit Toruń in 2023
If Poland isn’t on your bucket list, it will be after you read this.
In all sincerity, I visited Poland not because it was exactly topping my bucket list, but because my very good friend Ada was studying there. I knew nothing of Toruń before I visited, except that it was the hometown of astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus (which, admittedly, I only found out because Ada’s college is called Nicolaus Copernicus University). All the same, after only a short week in this small Polish city, I can’t recommend it enough to anyone who is willing to listen.
A magical medieval city
Toruń is located on the Vistula river in Northern Poland and was miraculously spared from physical destruction during WWII, preserving the medieval architecture and layout of the city. In my experience, many famous historic cities have become almost museums for tourists, but not Toruń. Yes, it is an incredible experience to walk down the cobblestone streets and witness impressive cathedrals, towers and other structures that have been unchanged for hundreds of years. But the remarkable quality to me is that these spaces are still in use.
I didn’t know what to expect from Toruń, but I was very surprised by the food and the prices.
Toruń is by far THE most affordable place I’ve visited in Europe with some of the most delicious food. Ada kept making fun of my shock whenever the check would come. The streets are lined with cozy cafes, modern restaurants, and classy bars that rival any major European city for a fraction of the cost. I ate well for about 15 USD a day; and I’m not talking about street food (although that’s also delicious).
Toruń is not a dormant relic, but a vibrant, bustling college town full of life. Locals, tourists and students alike gather in the ancient town square to have lunch or decide the night’s plans, the bars are full of Polish youth celebrating the end of exams or just catching up… and anyone will be very happy to tell you their favorite pierogi spot.
Pierogi at Pierogarnie Stary Młyn on Łazienna street
As a big foodie, Toruń is my kind of place.
At sit down restaurants, small plates like steaming hot pierogi and hearty soups will set you back around $3, and larger entrees could be around $10 at most. For our final meal and as a ‘thank you’ for hosting me, I treated Ada to what she described as a very fancy restaurant called Mistrz i Małgorzata (named after the book, “The Master and Margarita” by Mikhail Bulgakov). She explained people come to this restaurant for anniversaries and other special occasions on account of its price. Coming from the US, I was expecting around $80 per person, and I was guessing low. For appetizers we tried the venison tartare served with fresh bread which was presented very dramatically in a cloche filled with smoke that swirled around as the covering was removed by the waiter. It was interesting to learn how popular venison is in Poland, as well as the prevalence of tartare everything which I would expect in France, not in a little, medieval Polish town. I also ordered a smoked tuna plate as well as a Lithuanian style dumpling soup for the main meal which we shared as the appetizers ended up being quite filling. We also each got a cocktail. Okay, I got two cocktails. For all that, the total price was just under $50, total. Also, if you do end up going to Mistrz i Małgorzata, I highly recommend a nightcap at Kredens Pub after, which is directly across the street. This cozy lounge looks like someone turned a library into a bar, complete with beautiful lighting and huge leather armchairs. And if you get a little carried away and need a midnight snack, a huge pizza or burger there is about $3.
Grilled prawns with garlic and parsley (left), and steak tartare with pickled cucumber, onion, capers and egg yolk at the Hotel Bulwar
An optimal day in Toruń
Morning
After breakfast in your hotel, take a walk around the impressive Teutonic Castle ruins right next to the river. After, I highly recommend you get a pick me up at Projekt Nano Coffee shop which is right next door. I tried their popular espresso layered with orange juice (pictured) which was surprising and very good. I really enjoyed sitting outside with my coffee and people watching, but if you’re in the mood to stroll, check out the gorgeous promenade that runs along the river nearby.
Afternoon
For lunch, head to Mikołaja Kopernika Street, right around the famed astronomer’s house. There are lots of cafes and interesting restaurants in this area like, Sznyt Na Winklu which had great drinks and beautiful indoor and outdoor seating. And after, it wouldn’t be a trip to Toruń without visiting Copernicus’ House for a quick walk around; it’s definitely interesting to see how they preserved it and you really get a feel for the way of life back then. If you’re still feeling energized, this is a great time to check out the shops that line the streets around the town square and be sure to pick up some gingerbread to take home.
Evening
There are so many amazing restaurants, but as mentioned, Mistrz i Małgorzata really stuck out to me for the ambience and unique menu. If your party is feeling more casual however, grab some kebab in the town square - it was probably the best I ever had. After eating, a great spot for a drink and a view is the rooftop of the Hotel Nicolaus. The sunset and service are top tier. Lastly, if you visit during the summer, rounding out your night at the Laba is a must.
How to get there
I arrived there via train from Gdansk airport. From Gdansk, it is a 3 hour trip, and you will have to switch trains at least once, but nearly everyone speaks English and the trains are clean and comfortable. I would recommend staying one or two nights in Gdansk if you can before heading to Toruń. Not only will this allow you a little time to recover from your flight, but also give you a chance to visit this beautiful coastal town (and even have a beach day if you visit in warmer months!). Upon arrival in Toruń, I noticed it is an exceptionally clean and safe city. As a solo woman traveler, I never felt uncomfortable walking around alone. Toruń is very logically laid out and easy to get around. I would definitely recommend it to other women who enjoy traveling independently.
Aside from being the birthplace of Copernicus, whose well-preserved house you can tour, the city is also famous for their gingerbread, which has been made there since the Middle Ages.
Seriously, even the Wikipedia page for gingerbread mentions Toruń. Walking through the city you’ll smell gingerbread being baked everywhere, you can even take a gingerbread baking class. That’s another thing about Toruń which made my trip especially fascinating: it is mostly Polish people who vacation there. It's a relaxing, beautiful town right on the water with delicious food and charming sights, so it attracts people living in the larger cities as a little oasis to escape during summer break. I saw perhaps one or two other Americans the entire week I was there, so I really became immersed in Polish culture and learned way more Polish than I thought I would. If you are planning a visit, try to come during the warmer months, as a highlight of my trip was a huge outdoor area called Laba Social Haven (Przystań Towarzyska). Open only during the summer, this venue right on the river features food trucks, mobile bars, plenty of seating and a large stage for various events each night. It’s popular with young people especially in the evenings, but during the day I saw a large age range from families to older couples enjoying this shared space. Ada took me here on the same day as a breakdancing competition and I can tell you - I will remember that day forever.
If you have any questions about Toruń, just send us an email and I’ll be happy to get back with you.
